Every C.A.L. bait — Shad Tails, Jerk Baits, Curl Tails, Swim Baits and Grubs — ships as bodies only. The jig head is what turns it into a lure, and picking the right one is mostly a question of hook length matched to body length.
Which jig head do I need?
Match the shank to the bait
- Short Shank — black nickel Mustad, 2/0 to 4/0. Built for the 3" Shad Tail, 4" Jerk Bait, Curl Tail and Paddle Tail Grubs.
- Long Shank — nickel Mustad, 5/0. Built for the 4" Shad Tail, 5.5" Jerk Bait and 5" Swim Bait.
- Premium Long Shank — same 5/0 fit as the standard long shank, on a black nickel Eagle Claw that is sharper and considerably stronger. Worth it around structure and on bigger fish.
The rule is simple: if the body is 3 to 4 inches, use a short shank. If it is 4 to 5.5 inches, use a long shank. A head that is too short leaves the tail unsupported and the bait rolls; too long and the hook point exits past the body and fouls.
Which weight
Weight controls sink rate, not casting distance, and the right answer is the lightest head that still holds your depth.
- 1/16 oz — a foot of water over grass, tailing fish, anywhere a splash spooks them.
- 1/8 oz — the flats standard. Two to four feet, light wind.
- 1/4 oz — four to eight feet, or 1/8 water with real current or wind on it.
- 3/8 and 1/2 oz — channels, passes, bridges, deep potholes.
- 3/4 and 1 oz — heavy current, deep structure, and vertical presentations.
Rigging it straight
Lay the head alongside the body and note where the hook will exit before you thread anything. Push the body straight onto the collar without twisting, then bring the point out at that mark. A bait rigged even slightly crooked will spin on the retrieve, put a twist in your line and get refused by fish that would otherwise eat it.
Also here: Bait Buster Jigs, the replacement hook for the Bait Buster line. For TerrorEyz-specific heads see TerrorEyz Jig Heads.
